Diagram 2002 Lxi 3.8 Engine Mounts
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey folks I want to replace my worn mounts (one the rubber/poly is cracked a bit) but I was hoping this is something I can do without pulling the motor, I have seached and read where it can be done jacking the motor up but I wanted to hear from anyone who has either done this or seen it done, and if it is a pain in the ass or not. I'm not sure how much clearance I would have between the engine and the trans tunnel/cowl area to be able to jack the motor up, but if it only needs to be a small amount it should work (I hope). Thanks for any info,
Scott
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most definately can be done without removing the motor.
removed nuts from old motor mounts, lift the engine with either a picker or carefully jack it up on the oil pan with a piece of wood inbetween the jack and pan.
Then simply remove old mounts from block, install new ones, lower the engine and then install the nuts.
Did mine single handed in about 30 min or so
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what he said^^^ not that hard at all. i did mine with a cherry picker in a restrictive trailer park that doint like to see car work that takes more than 2 hours lol! didnt take long at all. caint remember if i put the car on stands ,but its a good chance i did. i have a picker so thats how i did it (one side at a time) took an hour at most.
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Only thing I would add is change the trans mount while you're at it. Unbolt the trans mount first so when you jack up the engine it doesn't bind.
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I just did all three mounts recently. I used a floor jack judiciously placed to avoid bending anything. Unlike the others, this took me quite a while. Beware of possable bolt breakage and/or stripping block/transmission threads.
The tranny mount went pretty well given I didn't want to complety remove the cross member (pipes would have needed to go). On the other hand, the D/S motor mount was a pain. Not a lot of room to work; required getting that side of motor high enough to take the old mount out/put the new one in. P/S was a lot easier - lots more room to work and the mounts came out/went in with little drama. Still took lots more time than suggested by the other guys - or they defied physics and suspended time.
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I just did all three mounts recently. I used a floor jack judiciously placed to avoid bending anything. Unlike the others, this took me quite a while. Beware of possable bolt breakage and/or stripping block/transmission threads.
The tranny mount went pretty well given I didn't want to complety remove the cross member (pipes would have needed to go). On the other hand, the D/S motor mount was a pain. Not a lot of room to work; required getting that side of motor high enough to take the old mount out/put the new one in. P/S was a lot easier - lots more room to work and the mounts came out/went in with little drama. Still took lots more time than suggested by the other guys - or they defied physics and suspended time.
I've heard of bolts breaking and that is really going to suck if it happens.
Maybe an impact wrench can break them loose without breaking compared to doing it by hand.
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Replaced my mounts with Ford convertible mounts 2 months ago. Took me ~3 hours to do it with the engine in the car. Start off by loosening the trans mount nuts. Have a look at the driver's side nut to k-member and see if you can fit the socket over the nut. I had to remove the steering rack bolts to move the rack out of the way because the hard lines were routed in front of that nut. Get some PB Blaster and spray the nuts well. After that breaker bar (as long as possible) or impact gun to remove the nuts first, then the bolts to the block (remove nuts on both sides then bolts one side at a time). Block of wood and a floor jack and jack up the engine as high as you can go (I had to modify the block of wood to clear the oil pan drain nut). My driver's side exhaust touched the underside first. I managed to get the engine up a good 1.75 inches. Replace one side at a time. I also had to remove my oil filter to slip the mount from that side. Passenger side I had to disconnect the starter wire to get the mount out there.
Overall not difficult just be patient. I also put semi permanent loctite on all fasteners when I reinstalled. Bolts to block ~70 ft-lbs, k-member nuts ~90 ft-lbs (confirm with Hayne's manual)
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok thanks for all the info here, will be doing this during this week.
Scott
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You may find you need to loosen the fan shroud and/or remove the fan to allow enough movement.
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You may find you need to loosen the fan shroud and/or remove the fan to allow enough movement.
Absolutely right (remove the two bolts that hold the fan shroud in place). If you have a strut tower brace (like I do), that will have to come off also.
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I run an electric fan with no shroud so that part shouldn't be a concern.
Scott
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Watch your heater core hoses and the two efi main harness connectors - don't want to put any strain on those.
Source: https://www.corral.net/threads/motor-mounts-install-w-out-removing-engine.1377586/
Posted by: renayhedberge014611.blogspot.com
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